From the Arch to the Great Wall

7. Terra Cotta Soldiers



I woke up today and decided not to wear my new shoes. Also, I stopped carrying my backpack everywhere I go. Today's highlight was the terra cotta soldiers so all I needed was my camera and I didn't want to get my shoes dirty. Breakfast at this hotel is not good; I had some bao chih and that's it. Although Xian is not as advanced as Beijing, everything seems to be nicer. The taxis are clean and green and there are a lot more nice cars, buildings, roads, etc. here.

First up for the day is the Wild Goose Pagoda. The pagoda was interesting and it was only a couple yuan (another term for RMB) to go up but I decided against it. I walked around the park and took it fairly easy for the first day in Xian. Truthfully, I was ready to go see the terra cotta soldiers.

The next stop was a place to see how the terra cotta soldiers were made. I got a picture of myself sticking my head up through a headless soldier's body. It was really funny for how simple it was. The tour guide's English was hilarious. He kept saying "Students here prease!" and his "cotta" sounded like "carter" so he also said "This is how they make terra carter!" He would also yell when everybody was within whispering distance. Ever since taking the picture with the headless soldier I was laughing out of control; the picture combined with the guide's funny English threw me out of control. On a more serious note, we learned that a special clay material was used to make the terra cotta soldiers and that after firing the clay, two soldiers knocked together would make a metallic sound rather than a softer sound. This is one way to distinguish a real terra cotta soldier from a fake one.

Also on a serious note, a member of our group fainted while at the terra cotta factory and later on, Mr. and Mrs. Overkamp said it was from dehydration and slight heat exhaustion. All the tour guides have said drink more water than you feel is necessary and I thought I was doing so; this event was a drastic reminder to keep drinking water. The student skipped the next attraction and recovered after drinking two bottles of water and taking some replenishing salts from the Overkamps.

After the terra cotta factory we went to the Hua Ching Hot Springs. Lisa's personality was shy and introverted and she didn't do such a great job explaining many of the different tourist sites. I did learn that in particular dynasties, fat women were considered beautiful and skinny or normal women were not accepted by the emperor. Inside the park area there was a performance of traditional music and dance so I watched that for a few minutes and then it was time to go.

Finally, we reached the actual terra cotta soldier site. Before leaving the US, I borrowed some DVDs from my parents' friends about different cities and attractions in China. The real terra cotta soldier site looked exactly as it did on the DVD but the shock factor is higher in person. It was incredible to see so many soldiers lined up perfectly facing east (many of the enemies at the time came from the east). Each soldier's facial expression is different and the entire "army" even has ranks and positions. There were 3 pits; one big and two smaller ones. The biggest pit was the best because there was so much to see, the other two didn't have as many soldiers but had more information on the history and background of the soldiers.

In 1974, Chinese farmers uncovered fragments from the burial grounds of a Chinese emperor named Shi Huangdi while digging a well. Emperor Shi Huangdi ruled the part of China called Qin (pronounced "chin"; it is where China gets its name) and made many advancements such as setting up systems of writing, measurements, money, and roads, and thinking of the idea to build the Great Wall. The soldier idea came from the belief of most Chinese that the real world should be taken to the heavenly world when people died. He wanted many beautiful things in his tomb and he decided to have an army protect it for him.
As many as 700,000 people worked for about 30 years to make around 8,000 soldiers, horses, and chariots. Originally, they were painted in bright colors and even held weapons; after vandalism, time, and natural destruction took their toll, the result is what I saw during my visit.




第七章 兵馬俑

作者:岳群
翻譯:時報編譯組

參觀兵馬俑是今天旅遊西安的重頭戲,相機一定得帶著,早餐不是很好, 我只吃了包子。雖然西安不如北京那麼先進,但一切看起來還不錯,有著 青綠色乾淨的計程車,很棒的私家車、建築物和道路等。

我們先到大雁塔(Wild Goose Pagoda),塔看起來很有趣但我並沒上去, 只在停車場附近走走,到西安實際上就想去參觀兵馬俑。

下一站參觀兵馬俑是如何製作的,同學們幫我照了一張與兵馬俑士兵模型合成 的相片,十分有趣。帶我們的導遊英文很活潑,他一直不停地說「學生們請到這裡 」,他的「Cotta發音像「Carta」(馬車伕),結果變成「這就是他們如何製作陶 土馬車伕」,再加上他的音量出奇的大,這些加在一起,一路上我們都被他笑翻 了。說點正經的,兵馬俑是由一種特別的陶土做成的,當兵馬俑燒成之後,兩個 士兵碰在一起會產生一种金屬撞擊的聲音而不是軟陶土的聲音,這是分辨真假兵 馬俑的方法之一。

另外還有一件事,在參觀過程時,有位同學昏倒了,隨行老師Overkamp夫婦說大概是因為天氣太熱脫水所致。所有的導遊都告訴我們要盡量多喝水,經過 這個事件,大家都不會忘記得多喝水。那位昏倒的同學沒去下一站參觀,喝下二 瓶水,加上Overkamp老師給他們一些食鹽,很快就恢復體力了。

離開兵馬俑製造廠,我們直奔「華清池」,(相傳這是唐朝時楊貴妃出浴的地方) ,導遊Lisa內向又害羞,並沒有詳細解說不同的景點,但我知道在中國古代某些 朝代,女士豐腴代表美麗,皇帝不喜歡太瘦或體態一般的仕女,唐朝時皇帝就喜 歡像楊貴妃這樣豐腴的仕女。在公園裡還有著傳統音樂和舞蹈的表演。

終於,我們看到了兵馬俑浩大的實景,在離開美國前,我先觀看了由父母親朋友處借得的一些
中國觀光旅遊影碟,眼前的景象和影碟中看到的完全一樣,但是在現場看的震撼 感非常強烈,令人難以置信的是眼前這麼多士兵不但排列整齊且都面向東方,每位士兵表情 各有不同,還有不同的軍階和站的位置,簡直就是一整支陣容堅強的軍隊。 共有三個兵馬俑坑洞,最大的最值得看,另外兩個雖然兵馬俑不多,但是有著較多 的兵馬俑歷史和背景介紹。

兵馬俑的出土是在1974年間,中國的農民在秦始皇墓地附近鑿井時發現的。 秦始皇統治中國時,稱做秦朝,(China 稱號即由此而來)有著不少建樹,例如書同文, 車同軌和統一度量衡,并且下令建長城。

由於很多中國人相信人死後,真實的景物要一起帶去天上的世界,所以就有了兵 馬俑陪葬的這個做法,當年秦始皇決定在墓中陪葬許多珍貴的寶物,並要有軍隊 來保護,因此動員了70萬名工人,花了近30年的時間,做成了大約八千名兵馬俑 士兵、馬匹和戰車等,這些兵馬俑最初都有鮮明的上色,甚至攜帶武器,經過歷 史歲月的侵蝕和自然的風化,現在的兵馬俑就是我所看到的。






 
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