From the Arch to the Great Wall

11. Shaolin temple and Kung fu


Shaolin temple Kung fu demonstration

Yesterday I got my shorts back from the laundry service and they are brilliant. All the mud stains (some a few days old) came off and the pants were ironed and folded inside the bag. I marked something wrong on the sheet so the total actually came out to be less than what I thought, somewhere around 2 USD. Not bad for such quick and excellent service. On the bus this morning Haibo gave out waters so we could all be hydrated.

Today was the first special day for me since I was in my dad's home area of the Henan Province. The first stop was the Shaolin temple. It was more interesting than the other temples because I got to see monks walking around with incense and doing their prayers inside the worship halls. The Shaolin temple is situated in Henan Province, 13km northwest of DengFeng country town at the western foot of Mt. Songshan. The name Shaolin comes from the fact that the monastery is nestled in the woods(lin) below the shady northen slope of Shaoshi Peak.

Shaolin Monastery was built in 495 under the patronage of Emperor Xiaowen (reigned 471-500) of the Northen Wei Dynasty, to accommodate a visting Indian monk, Bodhiharma. During the 1,500 years of its history, it has gone through many ups and downs; at times a vast thriving establishment, at others suffering decline and disaster.

In 573, Emperor Wudi (reigned 561-579) of the Northen Zhou Dynasty prohibited the Buddhist and Taoist religions. The Shaolin Monastery was abandoned. After 581, Emperor Wendi (reigned 581-605) of the Sui Dynasty revived Buddhism, granting the monastery 10,000 mu (666 hectares) of land and providing subsistence for the monks. Not long after, however, wide spread uprisings and wars against the Sui resulted in the monastery being razed to the ground, with only a stone pagoda left standing.

By the reign of the Tang Dynasty Emperor TaiZong (reigned 627-650), the monastery flourished once more, again in possession of more than 600 hectares of land, buildings with a total of more than 5,000 rooms, over 1,000 monks, and its own army and statutes.

In 1312, Emperor RenZhong (reigned 1312-1321) of the Yuan Dynasty ennobled the abbot of the Shaolin Monastery as the Great Master of the Void and the Duke of Jin. However, at the end of the Yuan Dynasty, it met again with disaster, once more being consumed by fire. The buildings remaining today date from the Ming and Qing dynasties, and the title plaque, ShaoLin Monastery, above the main entrance was written by Emperor KangXi (reigned 1662-1723) of the Qing dynasty. Unfortunately, its troubles were not over yet. In 1928, during a battle between feuding warlords, Shi YouSan sent troops to burn the monastery. The fire raged for more than 40 days, reducing most of the main halls to ashes and destroying many cultural relics.

After some time for pictures we walked for a few minutes to the Pagoda Forest. It stays true to its name because it literally is a forest of pagodas. I learned that emperors usually had pagodas built with 9 levels because 9 is a lucky number.

A stupa is a brick structure in which the cinerary urn of a deceased Buddhist monk is preserved, generally called a pagoda. In each of the Shaolin pagodas, the cinerary urn of a presiding monk, or of an especially famous monk, was stored, and, deep under the ground surrounding the pagoda ,a number of urns of his disciples were buried. According to historical recordings, there were originally more than five hundred pagodas, but only two hundred and twenty seven have remained. They occupy an area of about 14,000 square meters. They were different in height and workmanship in accordance with the monk's prestige, position, scholarship, and the financial condition of the temple when he was alive. The pagodas are different in shape, each has an inscription tablet, some with fine sculptures. They are samples of plastic arts of different ages.

The Forest of Pagodas is not only the last resting place of the Shaolin monks, but also a wonderful view, and a treasure house for students of architecture, painting, calligraphy and sculpture.

Next up was a kung fu demonstration at the nearby martial arts school. Shaolin Quan is one of China's most well known traditional Wushu, its name originating from the Shaolin Monastery. Haibo explained that this boarding school trained some of the best fighters in China including Jet Li. It was neat to know that all the performers in the show were actual students of martial arts and not theatrical performers. I sat up front with Jason, Darryl, Pete, and a few others and we were called on stage to try to pull a bowl off a monk's stomach. We did not succeed.

The quality of lunch was great but there was not enough selection. The good food included pork ribs, man tou (Chinese bread), and mee fun (rice noodles). It all tasted great but there just wasn't much to pick from. While eating I thought about our time here and noticed again that we were halfway done with our trip. I really liked the small cities and the historical sites but I was ready to see big cities and experience what today's China is like.



第十一章 少林寺與中國功夫

作者:岳群
翻譯:時報編譯組

送洗的衣服回來了,放在洗衣袋裡,又平整又乾淨,幾天前沾上的污泥都洗乾淨了,全部只花費2元美金,以這樣快速且服務很好的洗衣收費,值得一記。

今天是個特別好的日子,因為我到了父親的故鄉河南省,第一站是少林寺,寺內到處可以看到拿著香的僧人,或在殿內誦經,我們也到了塔林(Pagodac Forest)參觀,的確名符其實,真是眾塔如林,據說皇帝建塔都是九層,因為9在中國是個吉祥的數字。

少林寺是天下第一名剎,禪宗祖庭,少林武術的發源地,因其座落在河南省登封市中岳嵩山的腹地,少室山下的茂密叢林中,所以取名“少林寺”。

北魏太和十九年(公元495年)孝文帝為安頓年年印度高憎拔陀落跡傳教而依山敕建少林寺。
釋迦牟尼大弟子摩訶迦葉的第二十八代佛徒達摩泛海至廣州,經南京,北渡長江來到嵩山少林寺,廣集信徒手傳禪宗,被佛教界尊奉為中國禪宗的祖初,少林寺也被奉為中國佛教的禪宗祖庭。

少林寺以禪宗和武術併稱于世。隋唐時期,已具盛名;宋代,少林武術已自成體系,風格獨具,
史稱“少林派”。成為中國武術派別中的佼佼者。元明時期,少林寺已擁有僧眾二千餘人,成為馳名中 外的大佛寺;清代中期以後,少林寺逐漸衰落。少林寺雖歷盡滄桑,但是留存下來的文物仍然相當豐富。如:自北齊以後的歷代石刻四百餘品;唐至清代的磚石墓塔二百五十餘座;北宋的初祖庵大殿;明代的五百羅漢巨幅彩色壁畫;清代的少林拳譜和十三和尚救秦王等彩色壁畫等等,都具有較高的歷史,藝術和科學價值。

少林寺的塔林,是少林寺歷代住持和尚和素負盛名高僧的墓塔群,每個墓塔周圍地下,都有不等數目的骨灰磚盒,據說是徒弟。史籍記載,這裡原有大小佛塔五百餘座,因自然的原因,大部分已不存在,今有二百二十七座。占地面積一万四千多平方米。塔的大小、高低,層數及粗細程度是按照和尚生前的地位,佛學的修養程度,徒弟的多少,威望的高低和寺內當時的經濟狀況等條件修建的。塔的造型各異,每塔都有志銘,有些塔上刻有精美的圖案花紋,表現了各個朝代的造型藝術風格。

塔林,不僅是少林寺歷代名僧的最終歸宿,而且它又是嵩山一大奇觀,也是對建築、繪畫、書法、雕刻進行研究探討的藝術寶庫。少林寺隔鄰之武術學校的少林功夫表演是到少林寺不可不看得精彩演出,導游海寶說,這個學校訓練出許多中國武術高手,包括著名武打明星李連杰,這讓我知道舞台上的打鬥功夫是出自武術學校學生的真功夫,而不是舞台花拳繡腿的演技。我和坐在前排的Jason, Darryl, Pete等被叫上台,識著去拉一個擺在一位僧人肚子上的碗,但是我們沒有
成功。

午餐吃的不錯,有排骨、饅頭和米飯,蔡色味道很好。用餐時,我再次想到整個中國之旅已過了一半,我很喜歡參觀過的歷史古跡和小城鎮,但是也很想去看看大城市,體驗一下現代中國的風貌。



 
logo
scanews
Copyright©  St. Louis Chinese American News